I've been really enjoying bodyboarding this past summer. I don't know what came over me, but after 7+ months of being landlocked, I started to bodyboard again. I dropped 120$ on a new board, plugs, and fin socks. Best investment ever. This Custom X board is so much better than my old-trashed BZ. My skill is improving too. Being better at an activity makes it so much more enjoyable.
The one thing I enjoy about going out to the beach to bodyboard is the fact that I am at total peace with myself while boarding. There isn't anything on my mind at all while I'm out in the water. The positive and negative thoughts on my mind are put aside. It's me and the waves. And all I think about (if I think) is catching the wave, if I'm going left or right, and if there is anyone in my way. I want to say, lately, boarding has started to become second nature.
I am getting so much better at boarding. I've become more confident in dropping in on big waves. I used to be afraid that I'd get tossed if I let a huge wave carry me or if I started (what I felt) was "late". I feel my risk in seeing how a larger waves picks me up and if I can drop in (without getting tossed) has resulted in me perfecting my catching the wave timing. I think also the fact that I am starting to be a bit more aggressive in putting my nose down and kicking harder to catch the wave. I had much success this past week with catching the wave (being a bit more risky and aggressive) that now, I don't even think(analyze) about what peak is going to be a good wave or not, where to paddle, and all that shit. It's like, I KNOW ALREADY. Now for me it is so exhilerating to trim the face of the wave, bottom turn to see the face of the wave, or make a huge drop on a closeout. I finish riding the wave and get off the board to paddle back out and think to myself, "That shit was so awesome". I feel this is stoke. If possible, I could go out every day to do this.
Bodyboarding is my passion, man. I am so into this sport. I am totally motivated into getting better at it. I feel so satisfied while doing it and after I leave the water. I get warm and bubbly inside when I think of bodyboarding. Me riding the waves and looking at other folks ride waves kind of makes me want to cry. It's a beautiful thing. To be in harmony with nature. To be so focused on an activity that all busy thoughts in the mind are quelled. I get so happy.
Ugh I love this shit. It's me and the wave and I'll never feel lonely.